1. Lobe and Upper Lobe
This is the softest, non-cartilaginous tissue of the ear. It accommodates a wide range of jewelry.
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Gauge: Standard gauges used are 20G (0.8 mm) or 18G (1.0 mm).
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Length / Diameter: For straight barbells (labrets), 6 mm - 8 mm is generally ideal. If a hoop is to be worn, diameters between 6 mm and 10 mm are preferred, depending on the ear's anatomy.
2. Helix
Located on the upper outer curve of the ear. It's the most popular cartilage piercing and offers a great look with multiple piercings.
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Gauge: Absolutely must be 16G (1.2 mm). Thinner jewelry (e.g., 20G) can cause a "cheese wire effect," cutting through the cartilage.
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Length / Diameter: For a healed Helix, the length of a flat back labret is usually 6 mm - 8 mm. For hoop jewelry, internal diameters of 6 mm, 8 mm, or 10 mm are chosen based on anatomy.
3. Tragus
The small, thick cartilage protrusion where the ear meets the face.
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Gauge: 16G (1.2 mm) is standard.
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Length / Diameter: Due to anatomical tightness and to avoid obstructing headphone use, short, flat-back labrets are used. The ideal length is 6 mm - 8 mm. While hoops are rarely preferred, if used, an internal diameter of 6 mm is suitable.
4. Conch
The wide "bowl" area in the middle of the ear. It can be styled in two ways: with a delicate stud in the center or a large hoop encircling the outer edge of the ear.
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Gauge: 16G (1.2 mm) or 14G (1.6 mm) for a more pronounced look.
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Length / Diameter: If a stud (straight barbell) is to be worn, 6 mm - 8 mm is sufficient for healed tissue. However, if the iconic hoop look (Hoop Conch) wrapping around the outside of this area is desired, large hoops with diameters of 10 mm, 11 mm, or 12 mm are required, depending on the ear's width.
5. Daith
The deepest cartilage fold in the inner part of the ear, just above the ear canal.
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Gauge: 16G (1.2 mm).
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Length / Diameter: Due to anatomy, straight barbells cannot be used. Only hoops (clicker, CBR) or, rarely, curved barbells are worn. The ideal hoop diameter should be 8 mm or 10 mm, depending on the depth of the area.
6. Rook
A vertical cartilage protrusion located at the very top of the anti-helix region, one layer above the Daith.
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Gauge: 16G (1.2 mm).
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Length / Diameter: The structure of the area does not allow for straight jewelry. Always a slightly curved curved barbell is used. For a healed Rook, the bar length is around 6 mm or 8 mm.
7. Orbital
Rather than a specific anatomical point, this is a "jewelry style." It refers to connecting any two piercing holes (usually in the Lobe or Helix areas) with a single hoop.
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Gauge: 16G (1.2 mm) or 14G (1.6 mm), depending on the chosen area.
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Length / Diameter: Entirely dependent on the distance between the two holes. The hoop should neither pinch the tissue nor be too loose. Generally, hoops with diameters of 8 mm, 10 mm, or 12 mm are specially selected based on the distance between the holes.
Professional Reminder: Millimeter differences completely change how jewelry sits on the ear. Flawless aesthetics are achieved when the jewelry perfectly matches anatomical names and these measurements.